Alessandra Corine Ambrósio
HOW to
redefine power dressing while giving a woman a uniform to climb her career in -
and one that can bring a man to his knees? This is Olivier Rousteing's brief at
Balmain, because this is what his army of rich, glamorous customers demands
from their wardrobes.
The
majority of looks were caged in graphic black leather lattice work, the dresses
were long, lean, zip-backed and to the shin. There was a heady waft of Tom
Ford's Gucci in the supremely flattering wide-leg trousers and that high octane
sexuality. There was a nod to Givenchy in the white trouser suit, the jacket
cut away and knotted at the stomach, while the Mondrian colour palette recalled
Yves Saint Laurent.
Yes it
referenced collections that have gone before and of course there was a vintage
energy here (it wouldn't be Balmain without one), but on the runway these
clothes became entirely modern: Eighties or Nineties or now - the sight of
Jourdan Dunn slinking past in a pair of dazzling yellow and black flares is
always going to be fabulous. And proof that while trends come and go, the
desire to feel fierce will never go out of fashion.
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