Ralph Lauren Spring 2017

 Ralph Lauren Spring 2017 Ready-to-wear

Ralph Lauren held the second of his buy-now-wear-now shows at the brand’s storied mansion-cum-flagship store today, and set the stage for the event with a glorious “living” installation.
With orchids and lush greenery sprouting from every inch of wall space at 888 Madison Avenue, it seemed that spring had officially sprung, at least under Ralph’s roof. It was described as an “oasis” in the liner notes, and as the first models hit the runway dressed in shades of sand and brown, the more distant, overarching theme for the collection came into view. The designer has a fondness for storytelling on a grand scale, and the desert scene was familiar to the luxurious world of Ralph Lauren. Chunky knit mesh sweaters and unstructured blazers had the rugged appeal of mosquito nets, while more utilitarian tropes, such as the jumpsuit, were refined with tonal brocade silk.

 The safari influence came through most strongly in the accessories, specifically the oversize cheetah-print satchels and sleek python wedges. Last season Kendall Jenner wore one of the brand’s popular distressed leather jackets on the runway, and there were more options for fans of the supermodel-off-duty look to snap up tonight. This time around, though, they came with shrunken proportions and an appealing sunbaked patina that was straight out of the Sahara.

There was a distinctive Midas touch where the eveningwear was concerned, with a series of high-shine, iridescent gold dresses. Slinky metallic cocktail-hour frocks, sparkling floor-length columns, and caftan-style looks were worn with jumbo gold hoops and graphic statement collars. In the current political landscape, the color gold has particular significance in relation to the White House. Lauren famously dressed Melania Trump in a chic eggshell blue skirt suit for Inauguration Day, arguably one of the most important moments for any First Lady. That said, he also suited the former Secretary of State and Democratic presidential candidate, Hillary Clinton, for the very same occasion—he was, in fact, an ardent supporter of Clinton, and created looks for all the key stages in her campaign. His Inauguration designs for Trump were seen as a significant act of bipartisanship.

Clearly Lauren understands the sartorial needs of the world’s key opinion leaders, regardless of which side of the aisle they sit. His clothes speak to the demands of a high-profile, glamorous wardrobe in no uncertain terms. And yet there is still an all-American grit and optimism to Lauren’s aesthetic that has universal appeal, as evidenced by the last look in the show: a billowing, sporty floor-length dress that shimmered with a floral print and was layered over—what else—distressed denim jeans.

Photo: Yannis Vlamos                                  Ralph Lauren